La Cerf – 1779-1780

The La_Cerf's keel on my shipyard was laid in June 2014. AutoCad has a map of the edge of the frames and the target frame. Immediately with notches under the clinker planking. Soon enough it was possible to cover the body with the planks, only narrowing the planks in the bow and stern at an angle (wedge). To provide a larger area of ​​adhesion, the spaces in the stern and the bow are filled with alder wood. For notches on frames, marking of a covering in aft and a nose part is made. Also the first was the transom and stern. I decided not to use paint, but to make all the details of artificially made precious black horn. Clinker shell made of pear ...

But under the influence of the older generation of ship modelers, I still succumbed to the arguments and relied on the experience of others, - that I would not be able to do perfectly flat belt belts. Therefore, she cut the finished clinker in half (as it turned out, this method of clinker cladding was very strong - barely removed the residues on the frames) and completely filled the spaces between the alder frames. When she was shooting the little one, she cut all the chisels on the frames. Therefore, in order to glue one belt of the cladding, it was necessary to make a false bar to prevent slipping of the cladding board. Because of this uncomfortable nuance, cladding was a very slow process. No more than one belt a day, as we had to wait for everyone to dry completely. Also, the gluing area has decreased, because each board does not fit properly into the body, but only the edge of the end of the rail. That is, it is kept on the glued surface only between themselves and in places where the clinker converges into the cladding in the surface (in the area of ​​the forst and in the aft part near the stern). Therefore, almost 4 months went to a new clinker cladding. And from this experience I will say that the first variant is stronger and more reliable.

At the same time began to produce parts of the keel, the forst and the stern. Again from the pear of Austrian (pink) and black hornbeam. I do this on a circular saw, though they can also be laser cut by making a map of cutting material in AutoCad. But, since the laser does not give 100% perpendicular cutting, I still decided that it was better to do it manually. And, by the way, it's a very interesting process to tailor the locks of parts to the idle state.